Dr. Sara Paisner describes galvanic and thermolysis modalities, this is helpful for those that learn best visually and auditorally over reading.
Electrolysis
e·lec·trol·y·sis
/əˌlekˈträləsəs/
Electrolysis is the only FDA approved treatment for permanent hair removal. Electrolysis provides the ability to treat white, gray, black, red, clear, blonde, and brown hairs regardless of thickness on all shades of skin color safely.
There are three modalities of electrolysis that may be used. One modality is called thermolysis or short-wave which is the application of heat to essentially break down and ultimately cauterize the follicle. Galvanic electrolysis is the original method of electrolysis and a current is used to produce a chemical called lye which is a caustic soda to break down the follicle. And the third modality is called blend which is a combination of heat with lye or rather short-wave thermolysis with galvanic.
Electrolysis results in the permanent removal of hairs that have been treated by destroying the growth cells, or rather the blood supply of that hair follicle. Our bodies are covered in hair follicles and these can be activated or turned on at any time due to hormones, genetics, some medical diseases, or even laser hair reduction treatments have been noted to stimulate hair growth. Hairs that are permanently removed through electrolysis will not regrow or return but hair follicles that are adjacent to or near the previously treated hairs may be “turned on” at any point and may require electrolysis to remove those hairs. There is no way to determine if any individual hair will begin to grow thicker or begin to produce pigment or at what point in life this will happen if at all. It is important to treat hairs that also are not “eye-catching” at a conversational distance but do catch your electrologists eye as they may be more inclined to become darker or coarser/thicker at some point in the future.
How is electrolysis performed?
Electrolysis is performed by an electrologist who inserts a probe into each individual hair follicle and then applies an electrical current (either heat or the chemical lye or a combination of both) to destroy the hair follicle and then the hair is removed from the follicle.
You can expect to feel a momentary heat sensation or a pinch but you should not feel the probe being inserted nor should you feel like hair is being plucked from the hair follicle as the hair slides out easily with an appropriate treatment. You may however feel what is described as a tightness upon the electrologist inserting the probe and you may feel tugging when the hair is removed but it should be barely and not the same sharp sensation as you experience when tweezing.
Electrolysis treatments are generally tolerated well with minimal discomfort. Some areas are more sensitive than others and some days we may be more sensitive than others. You should feel comfortable with your electrologist and if you are unable to tolerate your session you are encouraged to communicate this with him/her and your settings may be adjusted if necessary.
Treatments
Treatments are scheduled by time. It depends on the quantity of hair in the area(s) you desire to be treated how much time is necessary to remove the hairs. Someone may need 15 minutes to treat the upper lip, chin, neck, and eyebrows whereas someone else may need 45 minutes to treat upper lip and eyebrows; someone may need 1 hour for both underarms and someone else may need 1 hour for each underarm. It is important to consult with an electrologist so they may visualize the hairs and they may give you an estimate or a range of time expected to be needed.
It is possible to treat multiple body areas in a session dependent on quantity of hairs or you may require the whole treatment time to be dedicated to one area. Sometimes for a larger area, such as the legs, arms, underarms, back, etc. you may not be able to treat all the hairs in the maximum allowable time to reserve initially but over time the whole area will eventually be treated as hairs begin to slow in growth and/or completely stop regrowing.
It is also important to remember that if you require one hour of treatment time at the start of your journey that this does not mean that you will require one hour indefinitely and that your treatment time will decrease as the hairs are regrowing slower and some begin to achieve permanent removal with no regrowth.
Treatments are most effective when the hairs are in the growth stage, called the anagen phase, which is why it is important to follow your treatment regimen recommended by your provider. All hairs visibly present at the time of your treatment will be treated regardless of which phase they are in but if a hair is in the catagen phase the treatment is still effective although less than if it was in the anagen phase; and for hairs in the resting or shedding phase, the telogen phase, the treatment is even less effective. There is no way to tell looking at the hair externally which phase the hair is in unfortunately. This results in requiring multiple treatments to achieve permanent removal to fully destroy the blood supply of the hair follicle.
Is electrolysis for me?
It is important to discuss this with an electrologist. Electrolysis can be performed on all skin colors and tones safely - there are always risks. Electrolysis can be performed on tattooed skin safely as well without compromising the artwork. Electrolysis is a great solution for coarse and fine hairs, curly hairs, individuals that are prone to ingrown hairs, teenagers with excess hair growth in unwanted areas with puberty changes, women experiencing excess hair growth with hormonal changes or conditions such as PCOS (polycystic ovarian syndrome), someone with hidradentitis supportive will also benefit from electrolysis once it is controlled as electrolysis then may be performed to remove follicles in the area(s) of recurrence, individuals transitioning and/or prepping for gender reassignment surgery, athletes and swimmers, etc. Electrolysis can be performed if you suffer from hirsutism (excess hair growth) in any or multiple body areas, or if you have only three pesky hairs on your chin or the back of your hands - if you want your hair gone, it is most likely suitable for you!
There is a risk of scarring, if you have this concern or scar poorly or have a history of keloid scarring it is important to discuss this with your electrologist as you need to determine if the risk outweighs the benefit for you.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a commonly experienced side effect, what the heck is that? PIH is the darkening of pigment or color which is usually temporary, this is the same thing that happens when you get an acne cyst or zit or if you cut yourself and are pink-ish for a few months after. If you are bothered by this you may discuss with your electrologist and they should direct you to a professional equipped to manage this if they are unable to.
There is a risk of hyperpigmentation/darkening of pigment that may last, this again may be treated but may need to be coordinated with a skin care professional. Generally, electrolysis clients report their skin glowing and describe it as looking “perfect” due to no more ingrown hairs, no more hair follicle producing excess sebum/oil as when they present the areas of treatment start with some pigmentation due to these things.
Full disclosure of your medical history with your electrologist will help to mange and expect and minimize any side effects. Some medications additionally may cause excess hair growth as well which is important to discuss.
Electrolysis can be performed on the following areas:
eyebrows, nose, temples, forehead, cheeks, lower eyelids, chin, upper lip, ears, scalp, beard and beard shaping, nape or back of the neck, chest, breast, nipples/areolas, underarms, shoulders, arms, hands, fingers, abdomen, bikini, brazilian, buttocks, back, legs, feet, toes.
An informative video from Dr. Sara Paisner detailing how the chemical lye which is produced during galvanic electrolysis treatments ultimately destroys the hair follicle to achieve permenant hair removal.
At what age may I begin electrolysis?
If you have excess unwanted hair growth you may begin your electrolysis journey. While electrolysis is tolerated by many, teens may have some difficulty if this is the first method of hair removal other than shaving they are experiencing. Treatments may be adjusted with lighter settings and short treatment time to encourage the client to continue treatments - these accommodations will result in taking a longer overall time frame to achieve permanent hair removal but the give is comfort and motivation to tolerate and complete the regimen to get permanent hair removal.
It is important to note that throughout anyone’s life they may experience periods where new hairs grow and these are not hairs that have been treated previously but new hair follicles that have “turned on”.
When your child/teen begins to verbalize that they do not like the new hair growth it is a good time to discuss electrolysis with them. It is important to determine that the hairs are bothersome - visible, dark, thick and that you mutually understand the issue. When they are unhappy with the hair growth they will have the willpower and ability to make it through the appointments and follow through. It is important to reduce their anxiety for this treatment and not present it as a dreadful, painful experience (because it is not) and by reducing their anxiety with something new and unknown they will tolerate it that much better. Your electrologist may offer some options to help with pain reduction/tolerance as well. We have treated teens as early as 12 years old when puberty has begun, and some older at 14+ years, every child/teen is different and may not be bothered until a certain age or when other kids mention it or if it becomes thicker or darker.
The most common “complaint”: “I wish I did this sooner"!”
Electrolysis v. laser
Laser is mislabeled as hair removal but it is more appropriate to label it as hair reduction. You will continuously need laser hair reduction appointments to maintain. There have been cases of laser stimulating hair growth especially in hormonal areas, known as paradoxical hypertrichosis, there is no way to determine if this will happen to you until it is performed unfortunately. Laser can actually complement your electrolysis treatments to reduce the hairs present for large areas or high quantity of hairs such as back or legs and may even be recommended by your electrologist to ensure you achieve hair removal in a timely manner. In this instance, you may have laser treatments prior to electrolysis or you may have both treatments simultaneously.
Laser is filtered light and attracted to pigment/color so it will only work on dark hairs on fair skin and will not affect light hairs and anyone with medium skin tones or darker may result in hypopigmentation (loss of pigment) or hyperpigmentation (darkening of pigment) of the treated areas.
Electrolysis may be performed after laser has either stimulated hair growth or to precisely and accurately treat the hairs that are not black.
Hair should be shaved prior to laser treatment so the energy is not wasted on the dark hair shaft and hopefully reaches the follicle, whereas in electrolysis the probe is carefully and precisely inserted into each individual follicle to deliver energy to the blood supply to deplete it.
Manscaping
Common areas men desire permanent hair removal for are the back, ears, nose, neckline, shoulders, eyebrows, and beard sculpting.
Electrolysis does achieve permanent hair removal so it is important if a man likes to wear a beard that if he frequently changes the shape or areas the beard covers then electrolysis may not be the choice for him. Beard sculpting is especially nice for the cheeks and neck to keep a nice clean appearance between their routine beard maintenance and cut out the frequent shaving they do to maintain their beard. Frequent shaving increases ingrown hairs, as well as the neck area may be prone to ingrown hairs and electrolysis will eventually improve this as well. Electrolysis can also rid the white hairs or red or brown hairs that may appear in the beard area. You will be able to achieve that fresh shaven look everyday with no effort on your part.
Ear hair that is present on the outside of the ear or middle ear is able to treated. The hairs that are in the ear are limited to as far as the eye can see. This area typically requires less frequent treatments initially due to generally slow hair growth at baseline.
The back is another common area men desire hair removal. Many men have tattoos on their backs as well and this does not restrict you from electrolysis treatments. It may make it more challenging for your electrologist to treat but you too may achieve permanent hair removal.
Hormones and Hair Growth
Hormones are a constant battle for women (what a treat!). Electrolysis is unable to treat the cause of the hormonal imbalances or changes but will be able to resolve the concern/symptom of excess unwanted hair growth. Regardless of the cause of the hair growth, electrolysis will achieve permanent hair removal - it is important to note that if the hormones are not controlled for the most part you are likely to constantly be growing new hairs throughout your treatments. The pro of the excess hair growth is that the majority of the hairs have been stimulated and “turned on” and are able to be treated and there will be less residual hairs that may be stimulated at a later point in life, the con is that the hairs are present and it is likely resulting in lengthy treatment times initially. When hormones are the cause of excess hair growth it may make it more challenging to eradicate the hair follicles and take longer but stick with it and you will rid yourself of them.
Possible hormonal causes: puberty, perimenopause, menopause, high testosterone, polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS).
Other causes of excess hair growth: thyroid disease, pituitary gland disorder, adrenal gland disorders, insulin resistance, steroid use, certain medications (such as hormones especially testosterone, anti-psychotic drugs, glucocorticosteroids, anti-seizure, some immunosuppressive medications, hair growth medications such as biotin, Minoxidil, Nutrafol, Viviscal, etc.); Cushing syndrome, pregnancy, insulin resistance.
Ingrown hairs
Curly and/or coarse hairs are more prone to ingrown hair growth. Due to the thickness of the hairs they are more likely to get stuck underneath the skin. You may not always be able to see the hair underneath the skin but you may notice an acne-like cyst appearing in the same spot over and over. As you are on your electrolysis journey you may notice that you are more prone to ingrown hairs, this is due to the weakening of the hair follicle and slower regrowth. Your electrologist should be able to remove the ingrown hairs, depending on their depth it may take multiple attempts to remove it safely with minimal injury to the skin. Your electrologist may be able to recommend product(s) that you may use at home to help treat and prevent ingrown hairs.